Saturday, May 24, 2014
Jordon and Jeremy have been helping on some fairing, you put a 250 lb National Rugby Champion on a sander, and the dust just seems to fly.
(jeremy just got a teaching job in AZ, and is planning to build his own kayak in the near future)...
Not only am I receiving help, but I am also giving some myself. This is a spinnaker pole, cowling I am rebuilding, off a friends U20, that broke on us in last weekends regatta, despite the failure we were able to improvise and go wing on wing with the jib and still get a 2nd place for that race.
Things are finally heating up in the shop where I can finalize a few things on the kayak. Building the kayak gave me the confidence that I could build a sailboat.
Sunday, April 27, 2014
Still plugging away, the lead has been poured and went well using a turkey fryer to melt the lead. I used less then 1 propane tank (I had an extra tank standing by just in case) the recycled tire weights were easy to use, and as soon as the lead melts the steel clips rise to the surface of the pot, to be whisked away by my $5.00 stainless steel slotted spoon.
If I were to do it again.... I would put two large 3" holes in the mould, to fill the bulb from, maybe tilt the bulb to each side to fill the ends, then pour the middle with the bulb level. I ran out of tire weights and had a small void to fill the next day.
I am using my limited time multi tasking, fairing the deck and cockpit, pouring the bulb, building a carbon fiber tiller, and planing a 3” wide strip down both sides of the keel, for the (5) layers of 3” wide unidirectional carbon fiber, followed by more fairing and filling. (I have been trying to convince my fitness minded friends, that sanding with a longboard is the next cross fit rage,,,,, but no one is buying it)….
I am continuing with the mindset, that if I keep a little momentum going, even small things, will eventually be big completed items.
Here at the shop we do allot of scientific testing to assure quality control,,,, after jumping up and down on the keel,,,, it seemed like the perfect photo op of me hanging ten. Some test panels we get a little more scientific,,, and break out the sledge hammers to test their strength.
Might be a habit forming, here is another photo hanging ten, this time on a skate board, down the side of the main hull of a 43' Dick Newick designed Tri-Maran.
Tuesday, March 11, 2014
I am plugging away on "TIME MACHINE",,, the keel plug that is. As is the case with many of the parts on this build, and to prevent slowing things down, or just overthinking it, sometimes, you need to just roll up your sleeves and dive right in. We will get started on building an aerodynamic, 165 pound, torpedo shaped chunk of lead, but first we have to make a fake male plug in order to build a concrete female mold, to pour the lead male bulb,,,, I agree,,, a lot of steps.
I was pleasantly surprised with a very fair mold. I plan to let this cure for a couple of weeks, before pouring the 165 pounds of lead. I am hoping that by allowing the moisture to evaporate from the concrete, that I will be able to get multiple pours out of the same mold?, although I am not 100% sure if it will, but it would be nice to help out another boat builder, by sharing the mold.
Note: I got all my lead , by going to a few tire shops, when I told the owners what I was trying to do, they were enthusiastic to help out. It is also a great way to recycle those old tire weights.
Monday, February 24, 2014
After installing the cabin top on the boat, I cut out the access hole and climbed inside my now, completely enclosed boat, I sat to look around and plan/plot my next steps and had a wave of nostalgia wash over me, sitting there, in my cool boat cabin (I almost asked the wife if I could sleep out in the boat, that night) I was transported back in time, to being a young kid building structures (boat cabins among a few!) with my friends out of all the bed sheets in the house, all the adventures we had dreamed,,,, what a great time, and not a care in the world,,,, so, for a brief moment (if only we could capture that magic in a bottle) I was a kid again. I have to think that the younger me, would think it is very cool,,, that his older self is building a boat, a boat for adventures, with my family & friends.
After such a trip back into time, it seems only fitting that the boat has now named herself,,,
"TIME MACHINE", and my mind, much like my younger self ,while thinking of adventure, is working overtime, thinking of the possibilities for boat graphics, maybe a bit of Jules Verne or H.G Wells. an image of rivets,gears and alchemical symbols.
On a building note: I filleted and taped the interior, but decided against fairing anything to save weight...
Sunday, February 9, 2014
The cabin floor has gone in. I did not go with dual bunks and decided I wanted a one piece, seamless cabin floor, I also decided to try out my new HVLP gun and pre prime the interior, which was a good thing, as I am not ready to paint my exterior with it, it would seem that I have a little learning to do before I tackle that. FYI: I am using Interlux Primekote and will use Interlux perfection as my finish cote. Read the MSDS sheets as this stuff is pretty nasty when sprayed.
I also fiberglassed the cockpit floor and used peel ply for the first time, take my advice, go with peel ply, it left a completely smooth beautiful surface, (I also figured I will leave it on for awhile, as it makes a really good drop cloth and will protect the surface). As usual I am behind on posting, and can say that now that the cabin top is done, it was worth the time I spent priming, and sanding is allot easier while the top is off.
Let me add this, prep everything you can before bonding the top sides, tape 6mil plastic sheeting to the floor, wrapping up the sides, and you are ready to bond the deck and cabin top, with little care if you have any epoxy drips or runs.
Wednesday, January 22, 2014
I won't bore you with the small stuff, but after squaring and tabbing everything in place, it just becomes a ton of filleting and taping. I got advice from a friend that is building a 43' Dick Newick designed trimaran in Aspen, CO, and after that I started doing my fillets as follows. 1- mix and fillet several feet (I usually would try to mix up and fillet about 8-12 linear feet). 2- after filleting, start precutting your double bias tape (set aside in an order you can remember). 3- set up a piece of plastic sheathing on a flat work surface (I did mine on a 1x12 set on sawhorses). 4- Wait until fillets start to gel, and mix epoxy in small batches, wet out the precut pieces of tape on top of the plastic (I used a chip brush and squeegee), wet out then lay the tape to your fillet and squeegee in place (I found the side of my gloved finger worked well) also use your finger to gently push/slide the tape into the fillet, so that you get a good bond. doing this technique I felt I was able to work very efficiently, and created my best fillets.
Tuesday, January 21, 2014
This was an exciting time in the build, and you get to see a boat take shape very fast. This is also where a good cradle will start to pay off. I found that my panels just laid in place, no bending, forcing, or very much tension on the zip ties was required. The green strap was used to just hold the sides roughly in place, there was no pressure on the strap, and the hooks kept the panel in place as I set frames and started to zip tie everything together.
Frame alignment/squaring the boat: I had pre- marked the centerlines on all my frames, top and bottom and had snapped a chalk line down the center of the bottom panel when I had cut the frames/panels (I had also marked the centers of all my cradles) this helped in several ways 1- it allowed me lay the bottom panel, centered exactly on the cradle. 2- having the marks on the frames allowed me to set the marked frames to the chalkline on the bottom panel, and I was able to zip tie the frames in while also seeing their alignment down the centerline of the boat. 3- At this stage I had used auto jacks to level the cradle from my sloped garage floor and set the cradle level down the length and side to side, I then ran a string line down the length of the boat, at centerline, and was able to verify that my centerline marks at the top of the frames, lined up down the length of the boat. Everything lined up perfectly and after measuring diagonals from the stern, I had a little less then 1/16" variance in square,,,, TIME to start filleting…….
4- You will later be happy that you made those centerline marks as you construct your keel trunk, install your compression post, etc, as the marks have already been made, and by now you know that things will line up almost automatically. I hope that made sense and helps a little.
I plan to make the cradle available to any Colorado boat builders Spring/Summer of 2014 and would like to help anyone with an interest in getting their boat going, you can email me : firstname.lastname@example.org
Monday, January 20, 2014
The next time saver was to do away with the messy paint to mark the tyveks, I got tired of waiting for paint to dry, so I stretched my tyveks across the 1/4" plywood, held in place with frog tape, and used a dark highlighter, to mark the outline of the tyveks, it created a nice sharply defined edge to cut to, with out the mess and wait time of paint.